Fabric selection is one of the most consequential decisions in apparel production. The right fabric determines how a garment looks, feels, performs, and wears over time — and it accounts for 40–60% of the total production cost. For brands sourcing from China, understanding fabric categories, technical specifications, and certification standards is essential for communicating effectively with your factory and ensuring the finished product meets your quality standards.
Understanding Fabric Categories: Woven, Knit, and Non-Woven
All apparel fabrics fall into three structural categories, each with distinct properties and appropriate applications:
| Category | Structure | Key Properties | Typical Applications |
|---|---|---|---|
| Woven | Interlaced warp and weft threads | Stable, structured, minimal stretch | Suits, shirts, trousers, dresses |
| Knit | Interlocked loops of yarn | Stretchy, comfortable, drapes well | T-shirts, knitwear, activewear, casual dresses |
| Non-Woven | Bonded fibers (no weaving/knitting) | Uniform, low cost, limited durability | Interlining, disposable garments |
For most fashion brands, woven and knit fabrics are the primary concern. The choice between them is largely determined by the garment's intended silhouette and function: structured garments (blazers, tailored trousers, formal dresses) require woven fabrics, while casual and comfort-oriented garments benefit from knit constructions.
Common Apparel Fabrics by Garment Type
Different garment categories have established fabric conventions that balance aesthetics, performance, and cost:
| Garment Type | Common Fabrics | Typical Fiber Content |
|---|---|---|
| Tailored suits / Blazers | Wool suiting, wool-poly blend, ponte | Wool 50–100%, Polyester 0–50% |
| Dresses (formal) | Crepe, chiffon, satin, jacquard | Polyester, silk, viscose |
| Dresses (casual) | Jersey, ponte, linen, cotton poplin | Cotton, viscose, polyester blend |
| Dress shirts / Blouses | Poplin, twill, oxford, chambray | Cotton 100%, cotton-poly blend |
| Trousers (formal) | Wool suiting, gabardine, twill | Wool, polyester, cotton |
| Knitwear | Interlock, rib, fleece, French terry | Cotton, polyester, acrylic, wool |
| Workwear / Uniforms | Twill, ripstop, canvas | Cotton-polyester blend, nylon |
Key Technical Specifications
GSM (Grams per Square Meter)
GSM measures fabric weight and is one of the most important specifications to define in your tech pack. Higher GSM indicates a heavier, more substantial fabric; lower GSM indicates a lighter, more fluid hand. General benchmarks:
- Lightweight (80–150 GSM): chiffon, voile, fine jersey — suitable for blouses, summer dresses
- Medium weight (150–250 GSM): poplin, crepe, standard jersey — suitable for most casual and business garments
- Heavyweight (250–400+ GSM): denim, canvas, heavy suiting — suitable for outerwear, workwear, structured tailoring
Yarn Count
Yarn count describes the fineness of the yarn used in the fabric. In the metric system (Nm), higher numbers indicate finer yarns. In the English cotton count (Ne) system, also higher numbers indicate finer yarns. Finer yarns generally produce softer, more luxurious fabrics but at higher cost.
Width and Shrinkage
Standard fabric widths are 57–60 inches (145–152 cm) for most woven fabrics and 60–72 inches for knits. Shrinkage allowance must be factored into pattern making — most cotton fabrics shrink 3–5% in the first wash, while polyester blends shrink less than 1%.
Fabric Certifications
For brands selling in the US and EU, fabric certifications are increasingly important for both compliance and marketing. The key certifications to understand:
| Certification | What It Covers | Relevance |
|---|---|---|
| OEKO-TEX Standard 100 | Tests for harmful substances in every component of the fabric | Consumer safety; widely recognized by EU and US retailers |
| GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) | Organic fiber content + social/environmental processing standards | Required for "organic" marketing claims |
| BCI (Better Cotton Initiative) | Sustainable cotton farming practices | Supply chain sustainability reporting |
| GRS (Global Recycled Standard) | Recycled content in fabric | Required for "recycled" marketing claims |
| bluesign® | Resource efficiency and chemical safety in textile processing | Premium sustainability positioning |
OEKO-TEX Standard 100 is the most practical starting point for most brands — it tests for over 100 harmful substances and is recognized by major US and EU retailers as a baseline safety standard. Your OEM factory can typically source OEKO-TEX certified fabrics from their regular suppliers.
Sourcing from China: Key Textile Hubs
China's textile industry is geographically concentrated, with different regions specializing in different fabric categories:
- Shaoxing (Zhejiang): The largest woven fabric market in the world. Specializes in polyester, viscose, and blended woven fabrics. Home to the China Textile City, which houses over 30,000 fabric vendors.
- Guangzhou (Guangdong): Strong in knit fabrics, stretch fabrics, and lace. Proximity to Shenzhen garment factories makes it a natural supply chain partner.
- Dalang (Dongguan): China's knitwear and wool fabric center. Specializes in sweater-weight knits, wool blends, and acrylic yarns.
- Keqiao (Shaoxing): Specializes in printed fabrics and digital printing on demand.
How OEM Factories Handle Fabric Sourcing
One of the key advantages of working with an established OEM factory is that they manage fabric sourcing on your behalf. A professional factory will have existing relationships with fabric suppliers across multiple categories, enabling them to source your specified fabric quickly and at competitive prices.
The typical process: you specify the fabric type, weight, fiber content, and any certification requirements in your tech pack. The factory sources 2–3 fabric swatches matching your specification and sends them for your approval before production begins. This eliminates the complexity of managing fabric procurement yourself while ensuring you have visibility and approval over the materials used.
For a complete understanding of how to specify fabrics in your production documents, see our guide on creating a tech pack for apparel manufacturing.
Minimum Fabric Order Quantities
Fabric mills typically require minimum orders of 1,000–3,000 yards (approximately 900–2,700 meters) per color. For small production runs, your OEM factory can often source fabric from stock (pre-dyed, available immediately) rather than custom-dyeing, which reduces both MOQ and lead time. Stock fabric availability varies by season and category — your factory can advise on what is currently available.
Fabric Testing
Before bulk production begins, key fabric tests should be conducted to verify that the material meets your specifications:
- Colorfastness: Tests resistance to washing, rubbing, and light exposure. Minimum Grade 4 (on a 1–5 scale) is standard for most applications.
- Pilling resistance: Particularly important for knitwear and fleece fabrics. Grade 3–4 is acceptable for most end uses.
- Shrinkage: Wash and measure the fabric before cutting to confirm shrinkage is within tolerance.
- Tensile and tear strength: Critical for workwear and performance garments.
Sustainable Fabric Trends for 2026
Sustainability is increasingly a purchasing criterion for US and EU consumers, and brands that can credibly communicate their material choices gain a meaningful competitive advantage. Key trends for 2026:
- Recycled polyester (rPET): Made from post-consumer plastic bottles. GRS-certified rPET is widely available from Chinese mills at a modest premium over virgin polyester.
- Tencel / Lyocell: Wood-pulp-derived fiber with a closed-loop production process. Excellent drape and soft hand; suitable for dresses and blouses.
- Organic cotton: GOTS-certified organic cotton commands a 20–40% premium over conventional cotton but supports premium brand positioning.
- Linen and linen blends: Experiencing strong demand growth as consumers seek natural, breathable fabrics.
Chanddo Handles Fabric Sourcing End-to-End
At Chanddo Apparel, fabric sourcing is included in our OEM and ODM service. We source from certified suppliers across Guangdong and Zhejiang, with access to OEKO-TEX, GOTS, and GRS certified materials. We send fabric swatches for your approval before production begins and can arrange third-party fabric testing on request.
Contact us to discuss your fabric requirements — or explore our dress production capabilities and knitwear production to see how we apply these fabric standards in practice.
